Natural wonders, fantasy and adventure in New Zealand

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"You were doing 20kmh faster than the limit. That's a speeding fine of NZ$120 (S$105)," the fatherly policeman tells me.

 

I lamely explain that I have been maintaining my speed in sync with the Harley-Davidson bike in front of me, but I had got carried away by the breathtaking scenery and did not look at the speedometer. I promise to watch my speed limit and humbly plead for a chance.

 

Mr Policeman ignores me, scribbles my details into his dog-eared notebook, gives me a mini-lecture on rural speed limits and asks me to look out for the letter in the mail. But I spy a twinkle in his eye.

 

The letter never arrives, thankfully.

 

Four years have passed, but memories of the swashbuckling 3,900km road trip in New Zealand - equivalent to the distance between Singapore and Guangzhou - remains etched in my mind.

 

Over an exhilarating 17 days, I loop around the country's massive North and South Islands.

 

I am blown away by vistas of white-capped mountains and majestic fjords laced with thunderous waterfalls. I am startled by underwear models posing in ancient forests. I sit spellbound by the beach, watching penguins waddling back to shore. And, unforgettably, I get pushed off from a plane.

 

On May 2, New Zealand reopened its borders to travellers from about 60 visa-waiver countries, who can enter as long as they are vaccinated and test negative for Covid-19. There are no requirements for isolation.

 

Here are 10 highlights to inspire a trip filled with natural wonders, fantasy and adventure.

 

Entering the magical world of glow worms

 

First, I trudge through the forest, wade through freshwater streams gushing through a gorge and scramble over boulders, some larger than a van.

 

Then, I crouch through tunnels to enter dark underground cave systems, carved by muddy waters. Taking baby steps, I try not to slip off the narrow rocks that act as a pathway and trust that the safety harness will work.

 

Welcome to the depths of Middle-earth. Deep inside the cave system, I am rewarded with an "extraterrestrial" display of flickering glow worms.

 

Pro tip: An easy 2½-hour drive south from Auckland, the Waitomo Caves will be a great start for your New Zealand odyssey.

 

While some operators offer easy boat tours into cave systems, a hike is a closer encounter with Mother Nature. I look up Glowing Adventures and book its Off The Beaten Track eco-tour, which has a medium level of difficulty.

 

The well-run outfit provides a set of woollen clothes, boots and full safety equipment - plus a hot shower to clean up after the four-hour hike.

 

Hello, Mr Hobbit

 

Fans of The Lord Of The Rings saga (2001 to 2003) will not want to miss The Hobbiton Movie Set. Let the Instagram-worthy hobbit homes stir up fantasy when you knock on the wooden doors. Maybe even check out their letterboxes.

 

And end it with an apple cider at the Green Dragon Inn. This is an easy tour for all ages.

 

Pro tip: An afternoon tour can easily be combined with a morning glow-worm experience. The Hobbiton Movie Set and Waitomo Caves are just a 11/2-hour drive apart.

 

Plan around the weather as overcast days do not bring out the best of the colourful movie set.

 

Fearsome warriors amid a rumbling Earth 

 

From Mr Hobbit's lair, drive south-east for an hour and you will arrive in geothermal territory. A whiff of the air announces Rotorua, a great place to spend two nights.

 

Here is an otherworldly brew of mineral pools, bubbling mud ponds and steaming vents, punctuated with some geysers that spurt on cue.

 

The Maori cultural performances are touristy yet fearsome - I would not want to play rugby with the robust dancers.

 

But my heart skips a few beats when I stumble upon models doing an underwear photo shoot amid giant redwood trees in the nearby forest.

 

There, hug a tree and reconnect with nature. Grandma will marvel at the forest, frown at the models and complain about the town's foul-smelling air.

 

Pro tip: While a skimpy photo shoot is not guaranteed, the Redwoods Treewalk Nightlights is a delightful daily photo opportunity. Do an afternoon run or drive 10 minutes from town to the park's visitor centre.

 

Around dusk, a series of wooden lanterns, suspended like space saucers, light up. Together with the elevated walkways and platforms, this is a magical scene.

 

For the adventurous, take a short cut back to town through the forest alongside Longmile Road, but keep a lookout for the mountain bikers.

 

Expansive Lake Taupo and its raging Huka Falls

 

Further south-west is the majestic Lake Taupo, almost large enough for Singapore to squeeze into. While it is also a thermal wonderland, it offers a hive of outdoor activities such as cruising, trout fishing, biking, tramping and sightseeing from seaplanes.

 

The jewel is Huka Falls, a five-minute drive from the lake. Marvel at the thunderous rapids, powerful enough to fill up an Olympic-size pool in 11 seconds.

 

Wave at the occasional jetboat of screaming tourists doing a last-minute, sharp turnaround hair's breadth from the plunging waters.

 

Pro tip: From the Huka Falls visitor centre, cross the footbridge and turn left at the opposite bank for more lookout points of the endless, turquoise torrent.

 

If there is one hamburger meal to have in New Zealand, it will be at Lake Taupo's Pauly's Diner - the blue-cheese, soft-brisket beef patties and honey mustard oozing over crunchy fried chicken are so tantalising that I make three return trips for them.

 

I think it trumps the famous Fergburger of Queenstown. One caveat, though - a new owner has taken over Pauly's in 2022, but it retains positive reviews.

 

A challenging 20km Alpine day trek

 

An ominous sign warns of the challenging hike ahead and urges a turnaround if you are not physically prepared or properly equipped or the weather gods are not smiling. New Zealand's Department of Conservation says trekkers may need to budget eight to nine hours for the 20km Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

 

That day, despite dark skies, I decide to push ahead on the trail, which meanders among ancient lava flows, volcanic craters, glacial valleys, steaming vents and dense forests. It is ranked among the world's top 10 single-day treks and, certainly, it is highly popular in New Zealand.

 

With two energy bars, a litre of water and a Gore-Tex rain jacket in my backpack, I set off in my minimalist MacRitchie trail running gear, hoping to complete the course before the rain hits.

 

But barely at the halfway mark, the sky opens and I battle heavy rain, with whiteouts that reduce visibility to less than two body lengths ahead of me.

 

I yank myself up sections of steep rocky slopes, some lined with iron chains as guides. As I tackle the never-ending switchbacks of the Devil's Staircase, I promise myself a pint of Ben & Jerry's ice cream as a reward.

 

I tumble down soft volcanic soil, trip over tree roots and am drenched to the bone. The cold keeps me running and, three hours and 50 minutes later, I cross the finishing line - mainly spurred by the deadline to return the rental car and thoughts of a mug of hot chocolate.

 

This is not a walk in the park, on a seven out of 10 scale of difficulty, but I will repeat it under clear skies.

 

Pro tip: The weather can change rapidly. Take along a cap, a pair of thin running gloves and a light windbreaker. Do not attempt this unless you are moderately fit.

 

Park in a secure carpark along Ketetahi Road - the end point of the hike. That way, when you end the hike, you can freshen up and drive off. But make arrangements for a shuttle pickup to drop you off at the Mangatepopo start point.

 

Cathedral Cove's ethereal views

 

Creamy headlands, bathed in ochre hues, mark both ends of the golden sand beach. Off shore, statuesque sea stacks reach for the skies, lapped by gentle waves.

 

Ahead of me, an inviting archway beckons visitors to wade through on its fine sand.

 

Inside, the vault-like cavern opens up like a giant cone facing out, with its opposite end framing another surreal sea sculpture - its top crowned by bonsai-like trees. This ethereal scene will leave you speechless.

 

The Cathedral Cove is among New Zealand's most dramatic and photographed seascapes, appearing in several movies.

 

But be forewarned, it is an undulating 2.5km hike each way from the start of the trail to the beach. The kids can handle it, but I would just show the photos to Grandma.

 

Pro tip: Pick a clear day, in the late afternoon, to catch the sunset. Take along water, and go with sturdy footwear and a headlight in case you are staying beyond sunset - you do not want to tramp in the dark through thick scrubland and a pine forest.

 

As the Cathedral Cove is a lengthy 21/2-hour drive from Auckland, do not attempt a night drive along winding mountain roads on the return leg. Instead, stay overnight at the nearby communities of Tairua or Pauanui.

 

The next day, you might like to make the one-hour hike up Mount Maunganui for a stunning coastal view.

 

An iconic lighthouse and the Caitlins' wildlife bonanza

 

From North Island, I take a cheap flight across to South Island's Dunedin. The charming city is peppered with Victorian-era houses, gothic architecture straight out of Batman movies and stately mansions.

 

Importantly, Dunedin provides better car rental deals and quick access to the wild deep south, compared with other entry points.

 

Just two hours south lies the windswept coastal region of The Catlins - a wildlife bonanza of basking sea lions, frolicking fur seals and playful dolphins.

 

I soak in the panoramic views at Nugget Point Lighthouse and wait patiently at Curio Bay's beaches for the rare yellow-eyed penguins to wade ashore after a day of hunting.

 

The walks here are all easy, though be prepared for some windchill and rocky beaches.

 

Also, visitors will be impressed with Dunedin's Baldwin Street, billed as the world's steepest street.

 

Pro tip: I take in the sights of Dunedin within a morning and spend the afternoon and early evening exploring The Catlins.

 

I stay overnight at Invercargill - touted as one of the most southern cities in the world. The quaint town's wide streets carry Scottish names, reminding me of the British weather that comes in shades of grey.

 

Postcard-perfect Milford Sound

 

Looping north-west, less than 21/2 hours away, I head to Queenstown, a pretty and activity-packed gateway to the lakes and Southern Alps.

 

It was overrun with tourists during my trip in February 2018 - with hotel rooms costing more than the lodging in Auckland and its town centre jammed with cars and tour buses.

 

Yes, I do my pilgrimage to Queenstown's legendary Fergburger - twice to be sure - and conclude that Pauly's Diner in Lake Taupo is preferred.

 

No, I do not bungee-jump, but instead chill at the nearby vineyards.

 

Queenstown is unavoidable, being the access point for Milford Sound - an astounding destination filled with fjords, thick rainforests and lofty mountains.

 

The spectacular drive, with lakes and waterfalls along the way, makes up for the arduous four-hour journey each way, with narrow or single-lane roads in parts.

 

Pro tip: Allow ample time for the long drive to Milford Sound, and set aside two hours to explore the area. Again, plan around the weather - rainfall is measured in metres here - and get updates on road closures.

 

To reduce driving time or fatigue, consider an overnight stay at the smaller Te Anau town at the half-way mark.

 

Avoid thick bushes and damp areas towards dusk as there are sandflies.

 

Mirror, mirror on the lake

 

Further north from Queenstown, 41/2 hours away, is Fox Glacier town and the nearby Lake Matheson. This area rewards me with a double bonus of the most stunning sunset and sunrise of the entire road trip.

 

On a late summer evening, the crimson skies envelope snow-capped mountains, the cows graze on vast open farmlands and a solitary tree on the hill strikes an imposing silhouette against the setting sun.

 

Next morning at dawn, I hold my breath as the sun inches over New Zealand's highest peaks of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. The blueish tinge of the sky mellows out into shades of champagne yellow while the sun's rays bounce off a glistening mirrored Lake Matheson.

 

Pro tip: Arrive in Fox Glacier town by late afternoon for the sunset. Make a turn into Cook Flat Road and head towards the carpark at Lake Matheson, a five-minute drive away. The tracts of open land with the mountainous backdrop are incredibly beautiful.

 

Before dawn, return again to Lake Matheson to make a short trek into the forest and wait at the jetty viewpoint. It is like an Indian ink painting. A layer of mist twirls, floats upwards and dissipates. In the distance, the fog weaves between the faint layers of mountain ranges.

 

Start the day with breakfast at the cafe at Lake Matheson and savour the moment of bliss and tranquillity.

 

They do not count to three

 

There are three ways to see New Zealand's tallest peak, Mount Cook, and the milky-white expanse of Fox Glacier. You can drive by and marvel from a distance or take a scenic flight.

 

Or better still, get on a plane and leap into the staggering views.

 

Skydive Franz offers the highest tandem jump in the southern hemisphere - at 20,000 ft, or about 6,100m. In comparison, most skydives are between 12,000 and 15,000 ft. At that height, oxygen is provided as the plane climbs.

 

It is a freefall of 85 seconds and I plummet at 200kmh before the tandem partner pulls the ripcord. After this ultimate thrill, roller coasters will feel like kiddie rides.

 

Pro tip: Do sign up for clear days, preferably the earlier morning slots before the cloud cover builds up later in the day.

 

On the plane, you get pushed off at the count of two, not three.

 

Pure New Zealand

 

New Zealand is the perfect family getaway - it is safe and the people are great.

 

Driving is a must to see the sights, but do so safely and do not get carried away by the views.

 

Nature is at your doorstep, with jaw-dropping sights everywhere. After a day outdoors, a warm shower and a comfortable bed are just an hour or two away.

 

Go before the masses return. Reconnect with raw, pure New Zealand.

 

The writer has done road trips in about 50 countries. Among his memorable mails were two registered letters from Armenia's Traffic Police - the first was a fine of €26 (S$38) for making a turn on a straight lane. And the second letter, a month later, for a €4 refund when they realised they had overcharged him.

 

Source: The Straits Times © Singapore Press Holdings Limited. Reproduced with permission.

 

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